The wine laws of certain wine regions, such as Italy's Tuscany, were usually established in previous eras, protecting and describing the classical wine of that time. But as we know, time moves on. Advanced winemakers in Italy do not want to be constrained by laws, such as those in Tuscany that prescribe the percentages of grape varieties allowed in Chianti or Brunello. They are experimenting with blends involving Cabernet, one of the world's great red varietals, but not permitted in the great Tuscan wines. So they have created an upside down world where the 'lowest' quality category, Vino da Tavola, is now the most precious wine made in the region. Try this superb example of Cabernet/Sangiovese from Tenuta Torciano, aged patiently in oak and chestnut barrique. Rich, 'sweet' fruit with profound depth.

Elegant, sweet Cabernet fruit with light oak. This fine red comes from Bordeaux' most famous commune, Pauillac, home to Lafite, Mouton, and Latour. The La Cour is made in a lighter style for early maturation. Enjoy this with a summertime mixed grill of beef and lamb.