The changing political climate in the Eastern European countries has brought changes throughout the culture. In viticulture we are finding that these regions are catching up to the 'appellation' laws of the rest of Western Europe, including more stringent and objective standards for designations such as Ausbruch, for example. The range of quality in Hungarian Ausbruch was very broad, but now they must adhere to strict measurements of ripeness. This 1995 Merlot from Eger is the real McCoy. A bit richer than the last from St. Ursula, it is a ripe concentration of black cherries and spice with loads of late-harvest fruit. Don't hesitate on this wine; it will sell out much faster than most expect!

This small Domaine produces red varietals that are truly outstanding, as we found out with their Syrah (which was already sold out by the time we tasted these wines!). But the Merlot is a suitable replacement, packed with rich berry fruit, aged in small new oak cooperage giving it a depth and luscious vanilla flavors that are very impressive. This is a wine for real Merlot lovers.

The Kinderwood Merlot is fast becomming an old friend as this third resupply has created quite a commotion. The style of the Kinderwood is very easy to enjoy,with solid currant flavors and just a modest touch of oak. The price is a pleasant surprise in today's Merlot market!

John and Eva Cassegrain established their winery in 1980 after working several years in Burgundy as well as at other Austalian wineries. The Hastings River region provides ideal micro-climate for both red and white varietals. This luscious wine combines the Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet and Merlot with the spicy fruit of the Shiraz. Loads of rich fruit wrapped up nicely in warm flavors of new oak barrels.

Geoff Weaver is one of Australia's leading wine judges, so we expected high standards from his own wines. He makes about 3,000 cases from a 25 acre vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. I found this Cab/Merlot blend to be rich and chewy, with silky tannins...like a good Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois.